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Technical Tidbits Updated 09-01-08 FCOC Yahoo Discussion Group To learn more about your FCCC
chassis and technical discussions, visit
Tech Tidbits Index
Click on topic for link or scroll down the page
Posted 02-17-2009
Allison High Efficiency Filters
Allison Transmission has introduced a line of high capacity filters that can, if used along with an Allison approved synthetic automatic transmission fluid, allow owners to extend their fluid change intervals. (Click here to go to Allison's website for a list of currently Allison Approved TES 295 automatic transmission fluids.)
Transmissions built with the new filters do not require an initial Main Filter change at 5,000 miles/200 hours.
The new filters were introduced over the last couple of years and there is no clear manufacturing date to tell if your Allison Transmission has the new high capacity filters. If you have a 3000 series transmission, serial number 6510670912 or higher, or a 4000 series transmission, serial number, 6610205144 or higher, then you should have the new filters. A general rule would be if your FCCC chassis was built after September 1, 2006 then you have the new high capacity filters installed.
Click here to view a brochure from Allison Transmission showing filter part numbers, change intervals, etc.
Normal 09-01-08
Tired of the XC Wal-Mart Wobble? You know, the dish-rattling side-to-side sway experienced when:
Here an answer!
Click Here for more info. . .
NOTE: Another alternative is a good anti-sway bar It should be noted that these air control valves WILL stiffen the your ride and will help the side to side sway. However they will also stiffen ALL BUMPS in the vertical plane as well.
An anti-sway bar on the other hand offers little resistance in the vertical plane which means your chassis will tend to keep it's 'soft ride' while resisting side to side sway.
A popular sway bar was the IPD sway bar (formerly distributed by Robert Henderson's company) which has been sold to Roadmaster which is now available at Camping World. You can get a bar engineered for the XC chassis.
Editor's note - Thanks to Brett Wolfe, President of the CAT RV Club for the above information.
Updated 2-13-08 Posted 12-24-07
Have ZF - IFS?
Have nagging front end wheel wobble or balance issues?
Click Here for more info. . .
Now have owner experience with Tru-balance solution
Updated 4-16-08 Posted 9-03-07
(Click on image for larger view)
CAT enters RV Transmission Market !
This photo is a 2007 Country Coach with mirrors underneath showing the updated CAT C9 mated to CAT's new CX-28 six-speed transmission!
New XCL chassis from FCCC 'Inverted Stacked Rail design'
Click Here for more details and pics Posted 8-03-07
More HP !
2008 Model Year Cummins ISL - 425 HP
2008 MY CAT C9 now up to 425HP - 1350 lb.-ft. torque
[ Editor's note- at a time when engine mfg. are struggling to meet 2007 EPA stds., some are increasing the HP of their engines!? Guess they figure their NEW DPF soot filters will clean-up the extra exhaust?] Updated 8-14-07 Posted 7-07-07
Chassis Maintenance Info
June 2008 Version
This is the FCCC Maintenance Presentation Lots of good info...parts numbers, filters, etc.
For a list of filters only (pg. 16) - Click Here
For a copy of the latest Owners Maintenance Manual See -http://www.freightlinerchassis.com/mhMain.asp?page=manuals
Updated 2-23-08 Posted 12-10-05
New Test Strip Info added
Need SCA info? Need coolant capacity info? Updated 5-29-07 Posted 12-10-05
For more details. . .Click Here
Updated 5-28-08
Secondary/Final - Fuel Filters need - 2 Micron Filtration
Q- How big is 2 microns?
Source: Racor Micron Rating brochure - used by permission Parker Hannifin Corp.
Re-vamped 5-29-07
Fuel Tank Hard to Fill? New Info available
Having a tough time filling your fuel tank? Fuel nozzle keeps clicking off? I have found a partial solution. Read on. . . Click Here Updated 8-30-07 Posted 10-05-06
1. Drive shaft disconnected on wrong end can cause much damage to undercarriage.
2. An IFS chassis requires 'special handling'. Make sure the tow company knows up front that you have a large motorhome and especially if you have an IFS system.
For Details - Click Here
Updated 5-29-07 Posted 1-01-06
Now approves use of B20 Biodiesel Fuel
See details on Cummins FAQ
http://www.everytime.cummins.com/every/customer/faq_biodiesel.jsp
Posted 3-25-07
Notice to FCCC owners with Cummins ISB02 Engines
Mystery in-line Fuel Strainer
Starting in Sept. 2002 FCCC chassis built using this engine contain a new FUEL STRAINER which needs to be changed out when you change your other fuel and water/separator filters.
This information has been added to the "Knowing Your Chassis" maintenance presentation (Pg. 12 for schedule, Pg. 16 for part no.) [see link below] and is now included in the new Owners Manual. For an updated copy of your Owners manual - go to the Links page and click on Freightliner Manuals. Select Maintenance Manual - see Section 47-03 for the new details.
For the Fuel Strainer location, call the FCCC hotline 1-800-FTL-HELP for location directions, OR
New improved diagrams
Thanks to Larry Dorer from FCCC for getting us the location information for this Fuel Strainer.
Updated 10-21-07 Posted 7-31-06
Tech Tip for finding Schematic Diagrams on access.freightliner.com
We used to have a nice 'Easy Method' to access schematics and wiring diagrams courtesy of Ron Anders from FCCC. However, FTL/FCCC has now changed their method of packaging and associating drawings with hardware which complicates the access procedures even more. So, Ron's old easy method should work on older chassis, but not on newer ones...and since we don't have a definitive time line for this change. . . the best bet for trying to get schematics or wiring diagrams...CALL FCCC HOTLINE in Gaffney. Posted 3-29-07
Two RV Tools. . .all you need
You only need two tools 1) WD-40 and 2) Duct Tape:
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40;
if it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
REAR RADIATOR APPLICATIONS If you have you have an Engine Overheating condition with a REAR RADIATOR CHASSIS, chances are good that your rear radiator is clogged with oil film and dirt. Until the new 2007 EPA clean air standards for diesels, the engine builders DID NOT have to count their crankcase breather emissions. Consequently the many engines still have a CRANKCASE BREATHER TUBE ('Slobber Tube') to vent the crankcase. Since engine builders make engines for different applications, they do not extend this tube beyond the engine...this allows oil fumes and oil droplets (usually called 'oil blow-by') to contaminate the bottom half of your rear radiator. That oil film collects dirt and over time, your radiator loses much of it's cooling capacity, your Charge Air Cooler (a special radiator to cool compressed air from the turbo charger before it enters the air intake to the engine) gets clogged ...and bingo, the engine starts overheating and you lose power due to intake air being too hot.
For more Information - Click Here Updated 5-23-08 Posted 9-24-06
Rear Brake Lights not working on your coach?
[Here's some recent info via the FCOC Yahoo
discussion group - ]
I had hazards, turn signals and tail lights, but no brake bar, no brake lights,
no engine brake light.
The
problem was neither Fliner nor Winny could tell me where
for both parts and labor.
Editor's note - According to FCCC tech support, this problem was mostly 1997 - 1998 model chassis. The original design used only one diode that sometimes got overloaded and blew out. The design changed in 1998 and a 2nd diode was added making this problem a pretty rare occurrence. Posted 4-19-06
Looking for fuses for your TOW plug wiring? Here's some recent info via the FCOC Yahoo discussion group - On our
04 Horizon (sister coach) those fuses and fuses for the tow plug are It cost me an hour of a technician's time to find those fuses. I hope this helps.
Ron
[Note your exact location may vary depending on where the coach builder located them] Posted 4-19-06 Got a new F/L chassis with 'silent turn signals'? Are you driving down the highway with your directional signals left blinking for miles after you merged onto the freeway because you can't hear the blinkers anymore?
For a solution - Click Here
Keep Engine/Chassis Batteries Charged
Updated 2-17-08 Posted 1-15-06 Are your chassis (engine) batteries charged when you are parked and plugged into 'shore' power? You say, yes of course...are you positive? For sure, your RV or House batteries are connected to the charger/inverter when you are plugged into 'shore' power, but your Engine/Chassis batteries may not be!
If not, many new coaches have 2 or 3 slide-out units and some even are quad slides. These new features plus leveling jacks may be run off your Engine/Chassis batteries and operated after you park and shut the engine down . . .meaning you are putting a good sized drain on your Engine/Chassis batteries with NO RECHARGING to boost them back to a fully charged state.
If your slide-outs and leveling jacks are run from your engine/chassis batteries after the motor is shut down, you should consider using an external charger to keep your engine batteries topped off when parked for an extended time.
For more info, see the excellent article entitled 'Take Charge' in the Nov. 2005 issue of Motorhome magazine, pg. 41
For more info - Click Here
Tired of your Info Center Display you can't see? FCCC has a 'fix' (ah, product improvement) FCCC Service Solution SS-2225 Improved Info Center Backlighting & viewing angle Click Here for a copy
Updated 2-03-09
Note - These instructions are now shipping with the new info center
Are you brakes squealing? Here's a recent post from the FCOC Yahoo Discussion Group Message: 3 Question Involves applying
them at various speeds. Does anyone know
where I can find this info. Thanks Freightliner Recreational Vehicle Chassis Operator's and Maintenance Wheel Alignment Time ? In my opinion, your wheel alignment should be checked once per year or around 12,000 miles, depending on your driving habits. Regular alignment will save wear and tear on your tires and maximize their useful life. Be sure to ask for a FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT. For more info - Click Here Updated 10-21-07
New Bedroom slide-out got your Satellite Remote 'snookered'?
Our new bedroom slider is great...adds so much more room. However, my DBS satellite remote control is Infrared (IR) and doesn't go around corners very well. Our bed is at right angles and our TV center is also side-mounted in the living area which means my satellite remote must traverse TWO right angle turns. . . so, I can not control the satellite channels from the bedroom!?
Here is a nifty DBS satellite accessory called a Remote Control Signal Sender. This device places a remote IR/RF (Radio) sensor near you and a complimentary sensor RF/IR near your satellite receiver. Your satellite remote control sends it's IR signal to the new sensor in the bedroom which converts the output to Radio waves (RF) which is transmitted to the other sensor up front near your satellite receiver. That sensor or base unit, converts the RF back to IR which is picked up by your satellite receiver...bingo works like a champ.
See figures below - Click on image for larger view
DBS Satellite Remote Control Signal Sender
Best news of all. . .found this unit at Wal-Mart on sale for only $35! After searching the internet...there are several similar systems out there, but many were $80 to $150 dollars. This particular model may have been a discontinued item and may not be available anymore. However, the regular price was only $40 and if discontinued, there should be similar units on the shelf at Wal-Mart, Best Buy or Circuit City.
There was no programming to do, no model #s to enter. . .it was truly 'plug 'n play'.
New C93 Light Bulbs. . . Have you encountered one of these new light bulbs...maybe your porch light burned out and you went to change it. A CEF 93...what? Looks like a regular 1146 or 1156 bulb...but is says CEF 93 and made in China. I tried to find this bulb at auto parts stores, Wal-Mart...no one carried this bulb!? Having been 'burned' in years past by substituting an 1156 for a 1141 and melting my porch light fixture...I was a little cautious about getting the right bulb. The fixture had stamped on the back plate, substitute was a 1003 bulb. So I tried the smaller 1003LL which I hoped would not melt things. It worked ok but seemed to burn out faster than the C93. Well I finally made time to research light bulbs and compare specs. Here is the result.
Yes, the 1003 would not melt the fixture, but look at it's avg. life...only 400 hours! The data reveals a much better choice, the 1093 and I had thought they are available at most stores that sell auto parts. However, recent experience has shown that the 1093 is also hard to find. So, I thought the old regular 1141 and 1142 are brighter and probably will work fine in most RV light fixtures - WRONG! Been using an 1141 and it too MELTED part of the top of the snap in lens...not bad, but just enough that it will allow rain to enter the fixture! That will break the bulb if you have your porch light turned on in a rain storm. . . so, back to the easy to find 1003 (but short lived), or trying to find the elusive 93 or 1093 bulbs. The RV industry doesn't make it easy...I was just at Camping World today, NO C93s, no 1003LL (LongLife), just regular 1003s.
BTW be careful with the 1156 or 1157...they are too hot for most RV light fixtures, they are designed for tail light fixtures and they WILL MELT your plastic light fixture!
Hope this helps. Updated 4-19-08 Posted 2-01-06
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